Tool Tips with Sherry

Beginner Metalsmithing Tip #1: Making a Perfect Bezel

One of the first skills every metalsmith should learn is how to make a bezel that fits the stone—not the other way around. A well-made bezel creates a secure setting, makes soldering easier, and gives your finished jewelry a professional appearance.

Step 1: Measure Your Cabochon

Begin by measuring your cabochon with digital calipers. Record the length, width, and height.

If you don’t have calipers, wrap a narrow strip of paper around the widest part of the stone, mark where the ends meet, and measure the strip. This will give you the length needed for your bezel strip.

Step 2: Select the Correct Bezel Strip

Choose bezel strip that is slightly taller than the height of your cabochon. After the stone is set, the bezel can be filed to its final height, leaving just enough metal to securely burnish over the stone.

Step 3: Form the Bezel

Wrap the bezel strip around the cabochon until it fits snugly against the stone. The bezel should touch the stone all the way around without forcing it.

Mark the overlap and cut the strip slightly longer than needed.

Step 4: File for a Perfect Seam

Using a flat file, carefully file each end of the bezel until the two ends meet perfectly. There should be no visible gap. A tight seam creates a stronger solder joint and helps the solder flow evenly.

Step 5: Solder the Bezel

Apply flux to the seam and place a small piece of hard silver solder directly over the joint.

Heat the entire bezel evenly, allowing the metal to reach soldering temperature before concentrating on the seam. The solder should flow smoothly through the joint. Allow the bezel to cool before quenching and placing it in the pickle.

Common Beginner Mistakes

• Measuring only the length and width of the stone.

• Cutting the bezel strip too short.

• Leaving a gap in the solder seam.

• Heating only the solder instead of the entire bezel.

• Using too much solder.

  
  

Sherry’s Tip

A perfect bezel starts with a perfect seam. Spend extra time filing the joint until the ends fit together without any gap. If light can pass through the seam, solder will have a difficult time filling it. The better the fit, the cleaner and stronger your bezel will be.

“Take your time when making the bezel. Every step that follows depends on getting this one right.”